Monday, October 9, 2017

Removing Broken/Stripped Wheel Studs That are Swaged

I was just going to pound out the 2 broken studs in my drivers front hub/drum combo caveman style from the front? BUT I have been reading about the swaged studs in the hubs/drums and I thought twice about it.
I decided I was going to mill out the back of the studs and pound them out the front--from the back side so the swaged area would not get driven though the hole in the hub/drum. It makes sense that the swaged shoulder area should be bigger than the area on the studs with the ridges.
If I drove the stud out the back from the front (if it was swaged) I thought the hole in the hub/drum might get stretched and then the new stud would move if I was tightening the lug nut as the hole in the hub/drum would now be too big?
I have a very small mill that would prolly have done the job but I just got out the grinder and ground out the heads of the 2 problem studs on the backside.
When I got close, I drove the stud a little from the backside toward the front and a little circular crack formed where the stud outline was. I just cleaned that up with the grinder and then finished pounded the stud out the front from the backside.
I really couldn't tell if the stud was swaged when it was in the hub/drum, but my FC seems to be pretty much original and sure enough when the studs were removed you could see the studs were swaged.
The part of the stud with the ridges is .618 and the swaged part is .640. The last picture shows the small size difference between the ridges area and the swaged area. If I would have pounded it out the other way, would it have enlarged the hole in the drum/hub to the point that my new lug would have spun in the hole? I don't know, because a lot of people seem to just pound them out the front?


Problem hub/drum with 2 bad studs
Grinding out the back and the outline of the stud can be seen here.




Above you can see the slight difference in size between the swaged area and the ridges area on the stud.



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